Afternoon sun

Ok, sure, no one walks around wearing a white shirt & bow tie in real life & just happens to stand side on bathed in the warm light of afternoon sun.

But you have to admit that a plain background does present neckwear in a favourable light. As do the moody shadows cast by the strong sunlight from out of frame.

Seersucker by the way is an underrated shirt fabric. It’s one of the subversions on the white classic that we favour here at Zutiste for its subtle difference in texture.

It’s important though to find a shifting that isn’t too thick, otherwise the seersucker bubbles become overwhelming. This one is from a Swiss mill sources through our shirtmaker.

Time now to throw on a jacket… Bow tie available in our eboutique.

Salt & pepper

Our classic salt and pepper plainweave woollen bow tie.

Woollens are tricky in neckwear: they can quickly get out of hand stylistically & begin to appear as though you’re gearing up for an imaginary round of shooting on the moors.

The subtler grey shades in this cloth however bring it back to a more regular neckwear profile. At the same time, the corser texture of the woollen cloth helps to escape the “grey business suit” look that can afflict worsted wool fabrics.

In your hands you have a combination of subtlety and interest, which is our key aim st Zutiste. Wear it with just about any colour jacket & trousers without concern for overdoing the palette, yet confident that you’re wearing more than just a grey necktie.

Available now on our eboutique.

Galaad

Our fine tweed bow tie on the dapper @galaadmoutoz of Galaad Moutoz Swing Orchestra.

A few pieces in our collection are currently appearing as part of the Galaad’s barnstorming jazz spectacle Harlem Swing Show as it tours France.

Costume changes aside, the show includes spell-binding music, song & dance that will take you back, or sideways (depending on your view of time travel) to the profound mystic & rhythm of the 1930s & ‘40s in a manner rendered especially pleasurable under the guidance of this accomplished band of jazz musicians.

It was also an age where different types of neckwear—neck ties, neckerchieves & bow ties—adorned the necks & collars of many classy & rakish types.

What caused the necktie to triumph when it is so plainly unsuitable to most physical activity & standards of convenience?

Wait, wait… the answer is clear: it is after all bigger in (visible) surface area. Let’s call it an instrument of a brasher statement? The bow tie remains then as its refined & (in that sense at least) more subtle sidekick.

Find it now on our eboutique.

Brio

A twill bow tie is a good choice when, in your occasional quest to reflect profoundly over the finer details of your ensemble’s interplay and the subtle messages that it communicates to your admirers, you’re searching for something that will tone down your outfit.

There are a few elements to this bow tie that ensure that result: first of all the fabric is worsted wool with its wonderfully muted surface and fine texture. Secondly, it’s dark blue, the safest of colours. Thirdly it’s a relatively traditional triangle shape, as opposed to the slightly racy, youthful diamond shape bow.

It, and indeed anything similarly in a plain, subdued worsted wool, is a neckwear accessory that comfortably identifies what you’ve thrown on as being the result of a certain level of knowing what you’re doing.

Yet, as is always the case in this day and age, the fact that you’ve put on something a little more daring than a necktie will give you cause to smile, likely undetected, at your the large shot of brio in your repertoire.

Available now in our eboutique.

On the cutting table

Bow ties on the cutting table.

Their manner of construction is small, meticulous and mostly invisible save to the expert eye of our sewing team.

Achieving those refined points, those gracious curves & just the right amount of cotton canvas so as to keep your bow tie springy yet flexible is a science developed over time and through experience.

The result is of course available in our e-boutique.

Polo

A long sleeved polo shirt sits on the cusp of the casual wear–tie & jacket divide.

It shares many of a regular shirt’s properties: collar, cuffs, at least a few buttons; however it’s textures & lack of structure on the collar renders it more appropriate to certain settings (a relaxed yet stylish environment) than others (a cocktail party).

Similar to what we’re trying to achieve at Zutiste with our wool bow ties, it stands out a little, however due to its overly formal character. Rather, when worn with a suit it marks you as an individual because it’s difficult to pin down why it’s different.

And the two go together swimmingly: casual wool texture & casual soft collar. Throw on your favourite knitwear & your ensemble is indisputably well put-together.

Available now in our e-boutique.

Autumn was admittedly a few months ago

Autumn was admittedly a few months ago. However our little photo shoot among the fallen still produced a fine series of photos of our signature bow wool ties.

In many ways the beginning of spring is the reverse of autumn. The weather is a little unsure: it’s sunny sometimes, but then it rains; it’s warm briefly but then one needs to reach for one’s coat.

In other words it’s certainly still a period for more restrained colours and deeper textures.

Create a point of difference in your ensemble with our discreetly individual navy and cream houndstooth wool bow tie.

Available now in our eboutique.

Early spring

Sunny Sunday afternoons with a burgundy & beige houndstooth bow tie.

A writer in The @Guardian commented recently that global warming (for a fortunate few

) simply means an earlier spring, whereas for most of the world’s population it holds catastrophic consequences.

So yeah, it’s sunny today; but it shouldn’t be. It makes for wonderful photos & outfits, however we must keep in mind the enormity of its negative flipside.

Early spring

Sunny Sunday afternoons with a burgundy & beige houndstooth bow tie.

A writer in The @Guardian commented recently that global warming (for a fortunate few

) simply means an earlier spring, whereas for most of the world’s population it holds catastrophic consequences.

So yeah, it’s sunny today; but it shouldn’t be. It makes for wonderful photos & outfits, however we must keep in mind the enormity of its negative flipside.

Paul Guillaume

‘Portrait de Paul Guillaume’ 1930, Kees Van Dongen (Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris)

After the First World War, Kees Van Dongen became the emblematic portrait artist of Parisian society in the 1920s, a period that marked the height of his career and brought him wealth and fame.

—Musée de l’Orangerie

Saturday nights

Zutiste houndstooth bow tie.

It seems that there are fewer occasions these days to wear a white shirt outside of the office.

This is principally due to what Malcolm Gladwell calls a “tipping point”: essentially there arrived a moment when enough people simply opted not to wear a white shirt out, say to a music recital or to dinner at a fancy restaurant.

The result? Today one wonders, in increasing diverse situations where previously it was automatically the dress code, whether a white shirt is overdoing it.

This is to be regretted, if only from an aesthetic point of view, as white serves as an ideal background. It’s basically invisible: attention is instead drawn to your necktie or bow tie.

To avoid the “too formal?” conundrum, it’s advisable to avoid anything that looks corporate. That means wearing off white, or alternatively wearing white but with texture, for example the subtle seersucker in the above photo.

Neckties and bow ties are wonderful accessories: facilitate their appearance in your outfit with an unnoticed background, without looking as though you’re about to drop into work.

Zutiste navy houndstooth bow tie now available in our e-boutique.

Nailhead bow tie

Zutiste navy nailhead bow tie

There’s something brilliant yet not brilliantly-shiny about a worsted wool bow tie.

On the scale of possible accessories to your outfit you’re often confronted with the difficult question of how much is not enough vs how much is too much?

Avoiding shiny surfaces in all facets of your wardrobe is a certain shortcut to appearing well turned-out while not looking as though you’re going, say, to the Oscars.

When was the last time that you wore a silk suit & silk shoes? Likely never. So why wear a silk neck tie or bow tie?

Enter worsted wool, which achieves a good balance between sharp yet relaxed.

And in the form of a bow tie you can take that extra leap beyond simply wearing a neck tie, to marking the occasion a little more discreetly (its smaller, after all) yet daringly (its a bow tie, after all).

Zutiste navy nailhead bow tie. Available now in our e-boutique.

Our grey plainweave bow tie

Available on our webshop (link in bio): our grey plainweave bow tie. 

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Charmingly cluttered workbench

Bow ties on the ‘production line’. The workbench isn’t in reality this charmingly cluttered, however the bits & pieces here do represent Camille’s toolkit for putting together the finished product.

Our navy birdseye bow tie

Our navy birdseye bow tie, available now on our website zutiste.com.

It sits among our more formal bow ties due to the relatively ‘hard’ hand of the wool. Thus it’s classy without being shiny, and classic without being dull—thanks to the modern spring-in-its-step of the birdseye weave.

‘Circular saw’ of the 1920s

From ‘Gentleman’ (2010). Bernhard Roeztel on that handsome & uncomfortable siren of summer, the straw boater.

The black band is rather sober, however you need to keep in mind that a century ago black was the universal colour of businesswear and the circular saw was habitually worn with a suit of that colour.

Today such a hat might carry rather a charcoal or navy band. Unlike a panama though, a genuine ‘Strat’ is heavy, rigid & grates on the scalp. Best worn with an excellent sense of balance & a padded inner headband.

Navy & cream houndstooth bow tie


Houndstooth for us places among the more subtle of cloth weaves. It’s not as logo-esque as a glencheck (originally that motif identified a particular estate) or brash as pin or chalkstripes; it brings rather an illusion of texture. This one is the real deal: a soft, worsted wool weave that pops in & out of its knot.

Le Bar Botaniste, Paris

Le Bar Botaniste, Paris. Underwhelming; perhaps it was the plastic drinking straw, or the guy sitting nearby wearing a t-shirt, or the slightly-tacky pop music. On the plus side, a guest entered wearing a velvet smoking jacket. And the barmen are undeniably affable chaps.

Barrel roll / Tonneau


We saw this style of photo for the first time of a pair of boots hanging from their laces: upside down but obviously, gravity being gravity, not in fact upside down. Here an unusually clear Paris winter sky gave us a direction-neutral background. Perhaps this is what a pilot doing barrel rolls might see were he to undo his bow tie?

Nous avons vu ce style de photo pour la première fois avec un pair de bottillons suspendu par les lacets. Ils ont l’air être à l’envers mais bien évidement, vu la force de gravité, ils ne l’ont pas. Ici un ciel parisien qui n’est pas clair d’habitude nous donne un fond sans indication de l’orientation spatial. Peut-être que c’est cela qu’un pilote verrait s’il dénouerait son nœud papillon en mêle temps de faire un tonneau ?

Salon des créateurs de swing

In 2016 Zutiste participated in the first Salon des créateurs de swing, or Swing Designers Show, à l’Arrière Cour in Paris. Accompanying the exploding dance scene in Europe are artisans & enterprises manufacturing bow ties (us!), clothing, & footwear (@swivells.shoes).

En 2016, Zutiste à assisté au premier salon des créateurs de swing à l’Arrière Cour à Paris. À côté du scene de danse qui connaît une croissance exponentielle en Europe sont des artisans et fabricants des nœuds papillons (nous!), vêtements et chaussures.

Graf St Genois d’Anneaucourt

Christian Schad, ‘Graf St Genois d’Anneaucourt’ (1937)—Centre Pompidou, Paris.

The black tie bow possesses a certain je ne sais quoi: we hope that it is never consigned to the sartorial retirement home that is the waiter’s uniform or new year’s eve costume.

Hidden socks

Hidden socks

It’s summer. And for the elegantly-dressed, hot weather is accompanied by delicate conundrums. Compared to displaying one’s own bare skin, cloth is a relatively uncomplicated affair.

Until recently this question hardly arose as the body was expected to remain covered in polite society from ankle to wrist to neck, and above the crown of the head. With the unwinding of society’s fixation with and disapproval of the public human body these convenient coverings have steadily receded. Today, we are less burdened in summer with devising how to wear all this fabric without resembling a perspiring water fountain. Rather we are doubly vexed by how to present geographically more skin, accompanied here and there by appealingly fashioned scraps of cotton, linen, silk and other cool plant materials.

Continue reading “Hidden socks”

One Hour With You

From Ernest Lubitsch’s One Hour With You, 1932 with Maurice Chevallier, Jeanette MacDonald and Genevieve Tobin  (writer Samson Raphaelson, from the play Only a Dream by Lothar Schmidt).

My Father’s Fashion Tips

“Here—rub a little baby oil into your kisser. If you want to stay young, you have to keep well lubricated.”

“Baby oil? What happened to Nivea?”

“Too greasy. Baby oil soaks right in. It’s the best thing for a man’s face.

“Isn’t baby oil just as greasy?”

My father raised a thick eyebrow. “Listen to me,” he said. “Learn my secrets.”

__________

The funniest writing on dressing that I’ve ever read. Tom Junod’s article My Father’s Fashion Tips appeared in the December 1996 edition of the magazine GQ. Read the entire article at gq.com

Shoes

At the gravitational centre of the parallel universes of dancing and dressing are one’s shoes. They are practically essential for the former; the sartorial fifth dimension similarly collapses without genuine footwear. I’m referring here to what could be called ‘classic’ footwear. It’s usually leather, goes well with a sports coat, requires polishing and all that. The fourth dimension, by the way, is time.

Continue reading “Shoes”

Café parisien

Entering a café in Paris recently, searching for coffee, the waiter greeted me:

“On a du très bon café monsieur” (We make excellent coffee here sir).

“Ah bon?” (Oh really?) I thought, doubtfully.

The milk was delicious. The coffee part of my café however is best left undescribed; despite the waiter’s good intentions I’m sure.

Coffee for me is integral to a dance festival, notably for sustaining on the dance floor and for summoning the weekend visitor’s joie de vivre that Europe’s wondrous array of regional capitals deserve. Budapest, Krakow, Madrid, Vilnius, Brussels, London, Lisbon, Amsterdam, Ljubljana, Bucharest, Stockholm: each are more pleasurable after visiting a reputable café. In the event that you visit Paris, I thought that you might appreciate a guide to the haunts of its few baristas.

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Versatility of the blue suit

“You can wear almost anything with a blue suit. You can wear any one of the self figured ties sketched in the panel of accessories in the right—yes even the green one.”

L Fellows, Esquire debut edition, September 1933.

And though you look so cute

Mia and Sebastian’s exchange will resonate with those in pursuit of dressing well. For many, though, their particular experience may have unfolded rather along these lines:

Mia: And though you look so cute in your—what’s it made from by the way?—suit…

Sebastian: Uh, I’m not sure. I think that it’s wool. Let me check the label… It says ‘Wool/poly…’ uh poly-something (I can’t pronounce that word) ‘blend’.

Continue reading “And though you look so cute”

Wisdom from the inimitable Will Boehlke

It’s not acceptable to be insecure about when it’s OK to wear one. It’s always OK. If [you’re] wearing a jacket with an open breast pocket, the pocket should have a square in it.

—Will Boehlke, founder & writer (from 2006–2015) of A Suitable Wardrobe

Le Charleston

La Fête du timbre (‘the festival of the stamp’) is an annual event involving the release of souvenir stamps organised by the French philatelists’ federation. Among the 2016 stamps is depicted ‘le Charleston’. The theme ‘la danse’ features again following salsa in 2014, hip-hop and tango the following year, and ballet, also in 2016. The waltz will feature among the stamps issued for the next edition of the fête.

Le Charleston by Nancy Peña

The Charleston stamp was designed by French illustrator Nancy Peña. The design, redolent of the jazz age, is vibrant. The flapper’s dress is drawn as a riot of frills while the gentleman’s trousers are decorated with a classic art deco motif and his upper lip a pencil moustache. Both he and the trumpet player, in the background among the flying cubist, lithograph shapes, wear semi-brogue spectator shoes; she sports a headband, that timeless symbol of jazz age costume. The dancers’ hands are radiantly poised while their knees, turned toward each other, give a dynamic expression of the twenties Charleston movement. The font employed for the title could effortlessly find work on publicity posters from the era.

Sending letters and postcards is itself a somewhat ‘classic’ pastime these days. I can’t imagine a more stylish way to adorn handwritten correspondence than this philatelic wonder.

Over-the-calf socks

Integral to taking an interest in style is maintaining the minutiae of one’s appearance: an ironed shirt, polished shoes… and erect socks.

Socks count among the usually invisible elements of the well-dressed formula. Crumpled around the ankles or in whichever state, socks are unlikely to be noticed unless your legs are crossed, and the fabric is particularly bright in colour, or a photograph captures you in an acrobatic dance move. Introducing refinement to the conversation, a glance to the past and to classic dressing will reward the curious with an effortless and elegant means of displaying an ankle pleasingly and evenly covered by hosiery.

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Keds advertisement 1935

An advertisement for Keds ‘The shoes of champions’ in the November 1935 edition of Esquire magazine.

Esquire, November 1935 (image courtesy of Esquire)

The advertisement is accompanied by illustrations of tennis, handball, basketball, the gymnasium, and ‘racquets or squash’. The shoe is clearly depicted as being—as the blurb in the bottom-left former describes—‘for every athletic purpose’. Add to that: dancing.

Swing dance historian Bobby White explains how Keds were essential equipment for professional lindy hop dancers between the world wars:

The basic Keds shoe (called “The Champion” today) and other Keds-like sneakers first appeared in 1917 and were the shoes the Whitey’s Lindy Hoppers began wearing to perform fast, high flying Lindy Hop routines… [In] Keep Punching in 1939, we start to see Keds and sneakers on the Whitey’s.[i]

The ‘Big Apple’ scene from Keep Punching, 1939 (director John Clein, writers Rosamond Johnson & Marcy Klauber).

__________

[i] ‘Swing Fashion: Keds’, Swungover 27th May 2011

Braces

Trousers present two significant conundrums for dancers: they slip down, and shirts untuck from them.

Much of this impracticality is attributable to ill-fit. A bespoke shirt that fits properly will remain tucked while trousers that rest above the waist will remain up. Universally-sized, ready to wear shirts cannot accommodate an individual’s upper arm lifting without pulling the shirt’s body with it.

Continue reading “Braces”

Buying trousers

Someone recently sought my advice on where to buy trousers for dancing (or pants, in American English). Reflecting on this question I realised that there are, for the curious, numerous angles to consider: style, fabric, manufacturer, historical context, and dance suitability. That which follows is my (entirely unqualified) views and advice on trousers for dancing.

Continue reading “Buying trousers”